There's a Godzilla on a rooftop in Shinjuku. There's a cat the size of a building across from the station. And a few minutes from the loudest street in Tokyo, there's a red shrine at the top of a stone staircase.
Heads up: some links and maps in this guide are affiliate links. If you book or buy through them, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
In this guide 7 sections
That's Shinjuku. Cream and I lived a walk from Kabukicho for a month, and it's where we ate, wandered, and ended most nights.
These are the best things to do in Shinjuku, day and night. For each one: what it costs, when to go, and how to find it. Plus a route for one full day, and what I'd skip.
The Best Things to Do in Shinjuku: Our Quick Answer
- One night: Walk Godzilla Road into Kabukicho, eat at the Kabuki Hall food hall, then walk through Golden Gai.
- One afternoon: Get the free view from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, then walk to Hanazono Shrine.
- Free: The city view, the Godzilla head, the 3D cat, Hanazono Shrine, and the light show on city hall.
- Rainy day: Tokyu Kabukicho Tower's arcade, Isetan's food hall, Don Quijote, or Van Gogh's Sunflowers at the Sompo Museum.
- Skip: Any bar a street tout walks you to. Pick your own.
Want a local to show you the bars, or a day trip out of the city? These are tours you can book in Tokyo:
The 17 Best Things to Do in Shinjuku
1. Walk Godzilla Road at Night // The Neon Side of Shinjuku
This is the Shinjuku you've seen in pictures. Kabukicho is the nightlife district just north of the station, and Godzilla Road runs straight into it. At the end, a giant Godzilla head looks down from the top of the Shinjuku Toho Building, which also holds Hotel Gracery and the TOHO Cinemas movie theater.1 It's set to roar and light up on the hour through the afternoon and evening, but the times change, so don't plan around it.2
We wandered into the theater's main lobby just to look around. Then check the sidewalk out front. Shinjuku has its own Godzilla manhole cover.


- Where: Kabukicho, about 5 minutes on foot from the station's East Exit
- Cost: Free
- Best time: After dark, when the signs come on
Bernie & Cream@bernieandcream
Follow along on Facebook
Bernie & Cream@bernieandcream
Follow along on Instagram
Bernie & Cream@bernieandcream
Follow along on Threads
Bernie & Cream@bernieandcream
Watch us on TikTok
Bernie & Cream@bernieandcream
Follow along on X
Bernie & Cream@BernieAndCream
2. Eat at Tokyu Kabukicho Tower // A Food Hall That Feels Like a Festival
This is the tall new tower around the corner from Godzilla. It opened in 2023 and rises 48 floors.3 We went all the time, because Shogun Burger is inside, and it's the best burger we've ever had.
The second floor is Shinjuku Kabuki Hall, a food hall made to look like a street festival. Giant goldfish lanterns hang over the stalls, and DJs and live acts play most nights. Go up to the 17th floor for a free open-air deck that looks out over the skyscrapers and the train tracks.4 The third floor is namco TOKYO, a big arcade with claw machines and a wall of gachapon capsule toys.

- Where: Next to Godzilla Road, Kabukicho
- Cost: Free to walk in and to use the 17th-floor deck. Food hall dishes vary by stall
- Best time: Evening, when the food hall is at its loudest
3. Watch the 3D Cat // Shinjuku's Most Famous Billboard
Across from the station's East Exit, a giant calico cat looks like it's climbing out of a curved screen on the corner building. We stopped to watch it, and so did everyone else on the sidewalk.
The screen has been there since 2021, and it runs from early morning until after midnight.5 The cat shows up in short clips between ads, so give it a few minutes.

- Where: The Cross Shinjuku building, across from the East Exit
- Cost: Free
- Time needed: 5 to 15 minutes
4. Walk Through Golden Gai // About 280 Tiny Bars
Golden Gai packs about 280 bars into six narrow alleys next to Kabukicho. Many seat only five or six people, and most open around 8 PM.6 We walked its alleys on our wanders around the bar area.
Most bars charge a cover, usually posted outside with the drink prices. Expect anywhere from about 500 to a few thousand yen. Some put up English signs to welcome tourists, and some say regulars only. Respect those.7 Ask before you take photos inside. If walking into a bar that small feels like a lot, a guided night tour of Shinjuku is the easy way in.

- Where: Between Kabukicho and Hanazono Shrine
- Cost: Free to walk. Bars charge a cover plus drinks. Bring cash
- Best time: After 8 PM
5. Visit Hanazono Shrine // Calm Next to the Neon
Hanazono Shrine is a few minutes from the Godzilla head, and it's the fastest way to go from loud to quiet in Shinjuku. Its red main hall sits at the top of a stone staircase, and it's free to walk in.
On most Sundays, an antique market sets up on the grounds from early morning until mid-afternoon.8 In November, the shrine holds Tori-no-Ichi, a night market where people buy decorated bamboo rakes for good luck in business.

- Where: Between Kabukicho and Shinjuku-sanchome Station
- Cost: Free
- Time needed: 15 to 30 minutes
6. Get the Free View From City Hall // The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building
In West Shinjuku, Tokyo's city hall has two observation decks on the 45th floor, 202 meters (663 feet) up. We went up, and it's free. On a clear day, look west for Mt. Fuji.
Both decks open from 9:30 AM to 10 PM, with last entry at 9:30 PM. The South deck closes on the first and third Tuesday of the month, and the North deck on the second and fourth Monday, so one of them is almost always open.9
Stay for dark. Tokyo Night & Light is a free projection mapping show on the building's own walls, every 30 minutes in the evening until 9:30 PM. Start times shift with the season, from about 5:30 PM in winter to 7:30 PM in summer.10
- Where: West Shinjuku, about 10 minutes on foot from the West Exit, or right above Tochomae Station on the Oedo Line
- Cost: Free
- Best time: Late afternoon, so you see the city by day and then lit up
7. Shop Don Quijote // The Store That Has Everything
Don Quijote, or Donki, is a discount store packed floor to ceiling with snacks, beauty products, souvenirs, and things you didn't know existed. We went in to look around. The big Kabukicho branch never closes and spreads over five floors.11 That makes it the easy answer for a 1 AM snack run or a last-minute gift.

- Where: Kabukicho, near Godzilla Road
- Cost: Free to browse. Bring your passport for tax-free shopping
- Hours: Open 24 hours
8. Walk Through Isetan // Tokyo's Classic Department Store
Isetan's flagship store sits by Shinjuku-sanchome Station, and we walked through it. Head downstairs. The basement food hall is the floor to see, with boxed lunches, sushi, sweets, and tea.12 It's also the best place in Shinjuku to put together a picnic for the garden (#12).
- Where: Shinjuku-sanchome, about 5 minutes on foot from the East Exit
- Cost: Free to browse
- Best time: Late afternoon, or any rainy day
9. Wave at the Street Go-Karts // Only in Tokyo
Every so often, a line of go-karts zips through regular Shinjuku traffic, the drivers often dressed as cartoon characters. Lots of people sign up to do it. We always waved when one went by.
Want to drive one? You need to be 18 or older and carry your home license, your passport, and an International Driving Permit issued under the 1949 Geneva Convention. Japan doesn't issue permits to visitors, so get yours before you leave home, and confirm the rules with the tour company.13

- Where: Main roads around Shinjuku, especially on weekends
- Cost: Free to watch
10. Eat Your Way Through Shinjuku // Our Favorite Spots
Shinjuku was our kitchen for a month. Nine of the places we reviewed in Tokyo are here. These are the ones we'd plan a night around:
- Torikizoku in Kabukicho. Cheap yakitori, and one of the most fun nights we had in Tokyo.
- Osakaya in Kabukicho. Monjayaki and okonomiyaki you cook on your own griddle.
- Ichiran in Kabukicho. Ramen in a private booth, open 24 hours.
- CoCo Ichibanya by Higashi-Shinjuku Station. Our first Japanese curry.
- Gyukatsu Motomura by the South Exit. A beef cutlet you sear yourself on a hot stone.
- Sushiro. Conveyor belt sushi, and our favorite meal in Tokyo.
Our must-eat foods in Tokyo ranks the dishes we'd fly back for.

11. Eat Yakitori in Omoide Yokocho // Memory Lane
Omoide Yokocho, or Memory Lane, is a narrow alley of tiny counters right by the station's West Exit. It grew out of a black market that set up in the ruins after World War II. Today about 60 restaurants line it, and more than half grill yakitori or offal skewers.14
Expect smoke, a handful of stools per shop, and a crowd from early evening. Many places are cash only, and most expect you to order a drink with your food.
- Where: By Shinjuku Station's West Exit
- Cost: Free to walk. Budget about 1,000 to 2,000 yen per person for a few skewers and a drink
- Best time: Early evening, before the after-work crowd
12. Have a Picnic in Shinjuku Gyoen // The Big Garden
Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden is the big green space on the south side of Shinjuku. It mixes Japanese, English, and French garden styles, with wide lawns, ponds, and a greenhouse. It's one of Tokyo's best-known cherry blossom spots in spring.
Adult entry is 500 yen. It's closed on Mondays (or the next weekday when Monday is a holiday). From October to mid-March it's open 9 AM to 4:30 PM, and later in spring and summer. Alcohol isn't allowed inside.15
- Where: About 10 minutes on foot from the South Exit, or next to Shinjuku-gyoemmae Station
- Cost: 500 yen for adults, free for kids 15 and under
- Best time: A weekday morning
13. Eat in Shin-Okubo // Tokyo's Koreatown
One stop north of Shinjuku on the JR Yamanote Line, Shin-Okubo is Tokyo's Koreatown.16 The streets are full of Korean barbecue, street snacks, and K-pop shops. It's an easy add-on to a Shinjuku day, and a cheaper place to eat.
- Where: Shin-Okubo Station, one stop from Shinjuku
- Cost: Free to wander
- Best time: Lunch or an early dinner. Weekends are packed
14. Soak at Thermae-Yu // A Hot Spring Bath in Kabukicho
Thermae-Yu is a big bathhouse in the middle of Kabukicho, open 24 hours, with hot spring baths and saunas. Day entry runs about 2,700 to 2,800 yen, with an extra charge late at night. Tattoo rules are strict and have changed over time, so check the current policy if you have any ink.17
- Where: Kabukicho, about 5 minutes on foot from the East Exit
- Cost: About 2,700 yen and up
- Best time: After a long day of walking
15. See Van Gogh's Sunflowers // The Sompo Museum of Art
The Sompo Museum of Art in West Shinjuku owns one of Van Gogh's Sunflowers paintings, and it's the only place in Asia where you can see one.18 The rest of the museum runs changing exhibitions, so the ticket price depends on the show.
- Where: West Shinjuku, about 5 minutes on foot from the West Exit
- Cost: Varies by exhibition
- Hours: 10 AM to 6 PM, closed Mondays and between exhibitions
16. Go Out in Shinjuku Ni-chome // Tokyo's LGBTQ+ Nightlife
Shinjuku Ni-chome, a few blocks east of Shinjuku-sanchome Station, is the center of Tokyo's LGBTQ+ nightlife, with more than a hundred small bars and clubs.19 Many welcome everyone, some are for regulars or women only, and most charge a small entry fee or a one-drink minimum.
- Where: Near Shinjuku-sanchome Station, about 10 minutes on foot from the East Exit
- Cost: Entry fees and drinks vary by bar
- Best time: Friday and Saturday nights, after 10 PM
17. Swing at the Shinjuku Batting Center // Baseball in Kabukicho
Baseball is Japan's big sport, and batting cages are a classic cheap night out. The Shinjuku Batting Center in Kabukicho has 11 cages with pitch speeds from about 70 to 130 km/h (43 to 81 mph). One turn of about 25 pitches costs 300 yen, and it's open until 4 AM.20
- Where: Kabukicho, a few minutes past the Godzilla head
- Cost: 300 yen a turn
- Best time: Late, after dinner
One Day in Shinjuku: Our Route
Shinjuku has two halves. The west side is towers and views, best in daylight. The east side is neon, best after dark. Do them in that order and you won't backtrack.
- Morning: Shinjuku Gyoen when it opens, with breakfast from a konbini.
- Lunch: Isetan's basement food hall, or a beef cutlet at Gyukatsu Motomura.
- Afternoon: Walk west to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building for the free view. Add the Sompo Museum on a rainy day.
- Sunset: Stay for the first projection mapping show on city hall.
- Evening: Cross back through the station to the East Exit. Watch the 3D cat, then walk Godzilla Road into Kabukicho.
- Dinner: Kabuki Hall, Torikizoku, or Shogun Burger.
- Late: Golden Gai, a 300-yen turn at the batting cages, or a soak at Thermae-Yu.
What to Skip in Shinjuku
Bars pushed by street touts. In Kabukicho, men stand on the street and try to steer people into bars. They never bothered us, but we watched them approach others, and it made us uneasy. Pick your own bar, and check the price before you order. We walked home at night all month, and here's how safe Tokyo felt to us, from taxis to earthquakes.
Leaving the station without a plan. Shinjuku Station has dozens of exits, and the wrong one can leave you on the far side of the tracks. Pick your exit before you get off the train.
Tips for Shinjuku
- Know your exit. East Exit for Kabukicho and the 3D cat. West Exit for city hall and Omoide Yokocho. South Exit for Busta Shinjuku and Shinjuku Gyoen. Our Tokyo Metro 101 shows how to read the exit signs.
- Watch for Mondays. Shinjuku Gyoen and the Sompo Museum both close.
- Bring cash for Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho. The tiny bars and counters are the places most likely to want it.
- Leave from here for day trips. The Odakyu Romancecar runs from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto in about 80 minutes.21 Highway buses to Mt. Fuji leave from Busta Shinjuku, the bus terminal above the South Exit.
Where to Stay Near the Action
If you want to walk home from all of this, stay around the Godzilla head and the East Exit. Pick a side street if you're a light sleeper, because Kabukicho stays loud late. We lived on Shinjuku's quiet residential side for a month, and staying in Shinjuku breaks down which part of it to book. When you're ready, compare hotels near Shinjuku Station.
So, What Should You Do in Shinjuku?
Start with one night on Godzilla Road and in Golden Gai. Add the free view and Hanazono Shrine in the daytime. That's the best of Shinjuku in a day. If you have longer, spread the rest over a few evenings, the way we did.
Still choosing a base? Here's Shinjuku vs Shibuya, and why we picked Shinjuku. Shinjuku is only one part of the city, so pick a few more days from the best things to do in Tokyo.
Next Steps for Your Tokyo Trip
Bernie & Cream@bernieandcream
Follow along on Facebook
Bernie & Cream@bernieandcream
Follow along on Instagram
Bernie & Cream@bernieandcream
Follow along on Threads
Bernie & Cream@bernieandcream
Watch us on TikTok
Bernie & Cream@bernieandcream
Follow along on X
Bernie & Cream@BernieAndCream





